Use pressure molding when thickness and finish matter
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Course: Fabricate composite race-car parts with workshop discipline
Module: Laminate and consolidate without hiding defects
Estimated duration: 55 minutes
Pressure molding is the step you use when ordinary wet lay-up gives you the right material but not enough control. A hand-laid laminate can be strong and light, but it depends heavily on how well you pressed the fabric into the mold, how consistently you controlled resin and fabric thickness, and whether the back face of the part was allowed to cure as a rough hand-worked surface. Pressure molding adds a second surface, a weighted board, a conformable weight, or a matched male tool so the laminate cures while being pressed into shape. The purpose is not to make a simple job look more sophisticated. The purpose is to control thickness, improve consolidation, improve the second face, and help stiff fabrics stay seated in tight curvature while the resin cures.
The basic rule is simple: use pressure molding only when the part needs a controlled section or a controlled second surface strongly enough to justify extra tooling and setup time. If the part is a one-off hidden cover and the back face does not matter, basic wet lay-up may be the better answer. If the part is a flat sandwich panel, a dash panel, an aerofoil half, a cycle-type mudguard, or a shallow curved panel where both shape and finish matter, pressure molding starts to earn its place. If the part uses carbon fabric and the geometry includes curves that the fabric would rather bridge across, pressure from a male tool can be the difference between a laminate that merely looks covered and one whose first ply is actually seated against the mold face.
Why the pressure matters
A composite part is not just resin and not just fabric. It is a matrix and a reinforcement working together. The resin holds the reinforcement in the cured shape and transfers load into it; the fibers provide much of the useful strength and stiffness. A beautiful outside surface does not prove that the reinforcement is fully in contact with that surface. A good-looking flange or panel can still hide voids, air bubbles, poor contact around a radius, or an uneven back face. Those defects matter because the part is only as useful as the cured laminate you actually made, not the laminate you intended to make.
In contact molding, you place resin-wet fabric into the mold and consolidate it with hand tools. That works for many motorsport components, especially non-critical bodywork and simple panels. But the pressure is local and temporary. The brush, roller, and gloved hand move on. Once you leave an area, stiff fabric can relax, a corner can bridge, and trapped air can remain under the first layer. Pressure molding changes that by keeping a load on the laminate during cure. For a flat panel, that load may be a board weighted or clamped in place. For a simple curved sandwich laminate, it may be a sandbag or another conformable weight. For a more controlled shallow molded part, it may be a male mold pressing the laminate into the original female mold.
Think of pressure molding as a way to give the laminate a second instruction while it cures. The female mold says what the outside face must be. The male mold, board, or sandbag says where the back face must be and how completely the plies must remain in contact. When the tool surfaces are prepared well, the cured part comes out closer to the intended thickness, with better consolidation and, where required, a better finish on both faces. That is the whole point of the technique.
The decision gate
Before you make a male tool or start clamping boards to a wet part, ask five questions. First, does the component need controlled thickness? If the part must fit a neighboring panel, maintain a fair aerodynamic surface, or repeat consistently from part to part, uncontrolled hand thickness becomes a problem. Second, does the second face matter? A hand-laid back face is often rough enough to be acceptable on hidden bodywork, but it is not the same as a tool-finished surface. Third, are you making enough parts, or is this part important enough, to justify extra mold-making work? Matched tools cost time and materials before they ever make a component. Fourth, is the shape simple enough to separate from both mold halves? Pressure molding is best suited to simple, not very deep shapes where the male and female tools can be separated without trapping the part. Fifth, are you using a fabric or sandwich core that needs help staying in full contact? Carbon fabric is stiffer than many other reinforcement types, and honeycomb sandwich panels depend on full face contact to be useful.
If the answers are mostly no, do not force the process. A clean wet laminate, a sensible local stiffener, or a vacuum bag may be the right tool. If the answers are yes, pressure molding is not decoration. It is process control.
The three workshop versions
The simplest version is the flat board press. You lay resin-impregnated plies on a flat mold or on both sides of a honeycomb sheet, place a release layer over the wet laminate, and press it with a board that is weighted or clamped in place. This is pressure molding, even though it does not involve expensive machinery. It is especially useful for flat sandwich panels because the board helps keep the skins in contact with the core and the mold while the resin cures. The important limitation is that this kind of workshop method should stay on non-critical items unless the part has been properly designed and validated. It can make a stiff, useful panel, but it is not a shortcut around engineering.
The second version is conformable pressure. With a simple curved mold, a sandbag can press a honeycomb sandwich laminate or wet laminate into contact over the whole area. The sandbag has an advantage over a rigid board because it can settle into a single gentle curvature and keep pressure on areas that a flat board would miss. It still has limits. It is not a precision matched tool, and it is not suitable for deep or complicated shapes. Use it where the shape is simple, the part is non-critical, and the goal is improved contact rather than perfect two-sided geometry.
The third version is matched mold pressure molding. You laminate into a female mold, then press the laminate with a male mold weighted or clamped into place. This is the version to choose when controlled thickness and a good inside face are part of the job. It takes more time because you need both mold halves, but it can produce a consistent laminate thickness, better consolidation, and a good finish on both sides when the tool faces are good. This is also the version that helps most when stiff carbon fabric wants to bridge across tight curvature. The male mold keeps the reinforcement pressed into the area it would otherwise avoid.
Do not confuse workshop pressure molding with industrial press molding. Industry may use precision matched tools in heated presses for bulk production of accurate components. The home or small race-shop version is much more modest: extra mold-making time, release layers, weights, clamps, or a simple matched pair. That modest version is still valuable when you apply it to the right component.
Choose parts that suit the process
Good candidates are shallow, accessible shapes with a clear reason for controlling both faces. Aerofoil top and bottom halves are natural examples because the outside face needs to be fair and the inside face may also need to be controlled for joining, fit, or repeatability. Cycle-type mudguards and dash panels are good workshop examples because they are not usually deep, they often benefit from a better finish, and they can justify a simple male tool if you expect to make more than one. Flat honeycomb panels are a separate but related case: the board and release layer let you make use of sandwich construction without needing elaborate equipment.
Poor candidates are deep shapes that trap the male tool, parts with undercuts that prevent clean separation, and critical structural components whose safety depends on analysis and proof beyond a workshop process. A simple method that works well for a non-critical panel is not automatically acceptable for a suspension component, a steering link, or another highly loaded part. Professional composite work may use test coupons cured with the component, proof tests, and ultimate strength tests to establish that a component meets its requirement. That quality-assurance mindset matters. If you are not doing that level of design and testing, keep the workshop pressure-molding methods in the non-critical lane.
Regulations also matter. Motorsport categories can restrict materials. It is a waste to make a neat carbon part and then learn that the material is not allowed in the class. Before you build a replacement body panel, wing element, or other visible competition part, check the technical regulations for the car and category. Pressure molding does not change the rulebook status of the material.
Design the mold pair as a tool, not as an afterthought
In a matched setup, the female mold usually defines the show face. The male mold presses the back of the laminate. The roles can be swapped when the geometry and finish requirements make that sensible, but the lesson is the same: both tool faces have to be treated as working surfaces. If the male face is rough, the back of the part will inherit that roughness unless a separator layer determines the finish instead. If the male tool does not reach a corner, that corner will not get the benefit of pressure. If the tool is flimsy, uneven, or unstable, it cannot give you a reliable part.
Mold stiffness matters more than it first appears. A pressure-molding setup asks the tool to hold shape while loads are applied. A thin mold that was acceptable for a casual hand lay-up can flex or distort when clamped. Practical mold guidance from the source material points toward small molds for thin lightweight parts being several millimeters thick, larger molds being thicker again, and erring toward thickness when in doubt. Reinforcement on the back of a mold is not just a stand. A suitable structure improves stability, strength, and rigidity, which are exactly the properties you need when a mold is going to be clamped, weighted, released, cleaned, and reused.
The gel-coat side of a mold needs care because the part copies what the mold offers. A lightweight glass tissue behind the gel coat helps prevent coarse chopped-strand fibers from penetrating through to the surface. Entrapped air in the mold laminate is also a real defect, not just a cosmetic annoyance. Air bubbles in cured resin are weak spots, and they can expand and cause cracks if the mold becomes hot or if elevated-temperature post-curing is planned. A pressure-molded part depends on tool quality, so a careless mold becomes a repeated defect generator.
Plan the release path before you wet the fabric
A pressure mold must release from both sides. That sounds obvious until you are standing over a cured part with a male plug stuck to the back. Your separator strategy must be planned before lay-up. The source material gives several workable options for the back of the laminate: PVA, polythene sheet, or specialist release film. Each choice affects the resulting back face. A polythene sheet or release film may prevent bonding to the board or male mold, but it also becomes part of the surface story. The finish of the male mold, the sheet, or the release layer is the finish the laminate sees.
Release film deserves particular attention because it does not stretch. It can follow single curvature easily, but it will not magically conform to complex curvature. If the shape is more complex, cut the film into overlapping pieces so the whole back of the laminate is covered. Push the film into tight corners. Do not leave it bridging across a radius, because a bridged release film can hold the pressure surface away from the laminate in exactly the place you wanted consolidation. The same principle applies to any separator: it must separate the tools without becoming a spacer in the wrong place.
If you are also planning later bonding or secondary lamination on the back of the part, decide whether peel ply belongs under the release system in the relevant areas. That belongs more directly to the vacuum-bagging and bonding lessons, but the planning habit carries over. Pressure molding is not just about closing the mold. It is about making the next operation possible.
Lay up with the pressure step in mind
The actual wet lay-up is not fundamentally different from the clean laminate process you already know. You still prepare materials before mixing resin. You still cut plies before the clock starts. You still wet and work the fabric carefully. The difference is that you must leave enough working time to close the pressure setup before the resin begins to gel. If you finish the hand lay-up too late, the male mold or board can no longer do its job properly. The part will cure in the condition you left it, not the condition you hoped the pressure would create.
For a matched part, dry-fit the male mold before the real lay-up. Check that it can enter cleanly, that clamps or weights can be applied without improvisation, that release layers can sit where they belong, and that you have a safe way to remove the male tool after cure. Do not discover during resin time that a clamp cannot reach, a flange is too narrow, or the male tool rocks on a high spot. Good preparation is the key to this job because the pressure stage happens when your time margin is smallest.
Carbon fabric needs special respect. It is light and stiff, which is exactly why you want it in many competition-car components, but its stiffness can make it reluctant to settle into tight curvature. A male mold pressing on the back of the laminate can force the fabric into areas it might otherwise bridge. This matters both cosmetically and structurally. The source material ties that pressure directly to avoiding air bubble voids between the first fabric layer and the outer surface, or within the laminate. If the first carbon layer bridges above the mold face, the finished outside surface may show the defect, and the laminate may be weaker in that region.
Do not use pressure as an excuse for sloppy corner work. For tight internal corners, use the corner strategies from the lay-up and fiber-orientation lessons. The source material discusses using strips in internal corners before the main carbon plies and balancing fiber directions in multi-ply laminates. The pressure mold helps hold the plies down; it does not decide where the fibers should run or repair a lay-up that cannot physically conform to the shape.
Apply pressure evenly and deliberately
The pressure should be broad, stable, and appropriate to the tool. With a board, the goal is full contact over the panel area. With a sandbag, the goal is conformable pressure over a gentle curve. With a male mold, the goal is to press the laminate against the female mold while controlling the back face. In all three cases, uneven pressure creates uneven results. A clamp only at one corner, a weight on one edge, or a male mold that rocks rather than seats is not consolidation; it is a new defect.
You are not trying to crush the part into quality. You are trying to hold the laminate where it belongs during cure. The source material emphasizes weighted or clamped pressure to achieve even pressure, and full contact between laminate layers and mold. Keep that mental picture. The useful pressure is the pressure that maintains contact everywhere the part needs contact. The useless pressure is the pressure that makes you feel busy while leaving a corner bridged, a release film wrinkled, or a core patch unseated.
For honeycomb sandwich work, this is especially important. The point of the sandwich is that the skins and core act together. If the skin does not contact the core, the panel does not deliver the stiffness you expected. The source testing described very large stiffness gains from sandwich construction, while also warning that contact-molding methods can make full strength difficult to achieve. That is the reason a simple board press or sandbag can be worthwhile: it helps maintain contact over the laminate area while the resin cures. The limitation remains just as important. These simple methods are for non-critical items unless the design and validation work says otherwise.
Cure and release without rushing the result
Once the part is under pressure, leave it alone until the resin system has cured sufficiently for release. The companion lesson on cure covers the chemistry in more depth. Here the practical point is that the pressure tool is part of the curing setup. If you remove the weight, board, or male mold too early, you give up the reason you used the method in the first place.
Release and trimming are mostly like ordinary contact molding, with the added step that the male mold must be removed. That extra tool is also one more place to damage the part if the release system was poor or the geometry was too ambitious. Split molds have their own release discipline: sections may need to be worked apart at flange joints before the rest follows. Wooden mixing sticks used as thin wedges are a workshop approach described in the source material for separating mold sections. The larger lesson is to release progressively and patiently rather than pry against a fragile edge.
Post-cure is not the center of this lesson, but it is connected. The source material points out that a modest elevated-temperature post-cure can improve laminate properties and can also shorten the time before a component is ready to release, finish, or allow the mold to be reused. If your process already includes a safe, controlled warm box or oven suitable for the resin system, pressure-molded parts can benefit just like other laminates. If you do not have that capability, do not improvise heat in a way that risks the mold, the part, or the workshop. Treat post-cure as a controlled process, not a panic fix for impatience.
What good looks like
A good pressure-molded part looks controlled before it ever looks fancy. The thickness is consistent for the process. The show face follows the female mold without obvious air-bubble defects. The back face is either tool-finished or consistently shaped by the separator layer. Tight curves are seated rather than bridged. A sandwich panel shows evidence of full skin-to-core contact rather than loose regions. The part releases without tearing, and the tool surfaces are ready to make another part.
The felt cues during lay-up are just as useful as the finished cues. When the release film is right, it sits down into corners instead of spanning them. When the male mold is right, it closes in a repeatable way instead of needing a different improvised push each time. When the board press is right, the panel is supported broadly and the release sheet is not wrinkled into the laminate. When the sandbag is right, it conforms to the simple curve and keeps pressure over the whole area, not just at the crown.
The calibration cue for carbon is direct: the first visible surface should not show the penalty of fabric that refused to conform. If you see bubbles or void-like defects along tight curvature, the laminate was not fully pressed into the mold or the lay-up was not compatible with the shape. The pressure tool may need to fit better, the release layer may need to stop bridging, or the ply strategy may need to be revised.
The calibration cue for repeat parts is repeatability. If the first part is acceptable but the second part needs a different clamp arrangement, a different stack of weights, and a different release trick, you do not yet have a controlled pressure-molding process. Tooling earns its cost when it lets you make the same part again.
Sub-skills that make the method work
The first sub-skill is candidate selection. You learn to say no to pressure molding when the shape is too deep, the part is too trivial, or the safety requirement is beyond the process. This is not pessimism. It is how you keep the method useful. Pressure molding works best when the component has a clear need for controlled thickness, consolidation, or finish, and when the shape lets the tools separate cleanly.
The second sub-skill is tool-face thinking. In basic wet lay-up, you may care mainly about the female mold surface. In pressure molding, both faces matter. The male tool, board, sandbag, polythene, or release film all become part of the surface and thickness result. If you would be unhappy to see the texture on the finished part, do not put that texture against the wet laminate without understanding the consequence.
The third sub-skill is pressure-path planning. Before resin is mixed, you should know where every clamp, weight, board, or bag of sand will go. You should know how the load reaches the laminate, where the tool might bridge, and where the release material might wrinkle. A dry rehearsal is not wasted time. It is the cheapest way to find the awkward part of the job.
The fourth sub-skill is timing. The pressure setup must be closed before the resin gels. That means you estimate lay-up time and closing time together. If the part is large or awkward enough that you cannot laminate it and close it in the working time available, change the plan. The source material describes molding complex assembled parts in stages when reaching the whole interior at once becomes impractical. That same thinking applies here: the process has to fit the body you have, the access you have, and the resin time you have.
The fifth sub-skill is release discipline. The pressure tool must not become a bonded insert. Use compatible release agents, release film, or polythene, and confirm them with small trials when you change resin systems or tool materials. Epoxy can be used in polyester molds with the same broad families of release agents, but small-scale trials are wise before committing a real part to a mold. That advice belongs in your pressure-molding habit because a stuck matched tool is more painful than a stuck single-face lay-up.
The sixth sub-skill is restraint. Pressure molding can produce cleaner parts, but it does not replace fiber orientation, material selection, proper cure, or structural validation. A race-car composite may use carbon, aramid, glass, core materials, and local reinforcements according to the job each area has to do. Pressure only consolidates the chosen stack in the chosen shape. It does not decide whether that stack is correct.
Where this lesson connects to the rest of the module
Use the basic wet-laminate lessons for resin handling, fabric wet-out, and keeping the lay-up clean. Pressure molding assumes you can already make a clean laminate; it adds tool pressure and second-face control. Use the fiber-orientation lesson when deciding what plies go into the mold and how they cross corners. Pressure can hold fibers down, but it cannot make a poorly oriented laminate carry the intended load. Use the vacuum-bagging lesson when the part needs vacuum consolidation, breather and bleeder control, or peel-ply planning beyond a simple pressure setup. Use the autoclave-capability lesson when the required quality level, material system, or structural demand exceeds what workshop pressure molding can honestly provide. Use the cure lesson when planning release timing and any post-cure.
The important habit is to choose the least complicated process that honestly controls the risk. Pressure molding is not the default for every composite part. It is the right answer when the part asks for thickness control, reliable consolidation, or a good finish on both faces, and when the geometry, tooling effort, and safety category make that answer reasonable.
Worked example: board-pressed flat honeycomb sandwich panel
Start with a flat honeycomb sandwich panel because it teaches the principle without hiding the result inside a complicated shape. Lay resin-impregnated plies on one face of the honeycomb sheet, place the stack on the mold or flat surface that defines the finished face, and prepare the opposite skin according to the lay-up you chose. The pressure method here is deliberately simple: a release layer over the wet laminate and a board weighted or clamped in place. The board is not there to make the job look professional. It is there to maintain full contact between the skins, the core, and the mold while the resin cures.
The success criterion is contact. After cure and release, the panel should feel like a single sandwich, not a sheet with loose areas. The faces should be more consistent than a free hand-laid back face. The release layer should have done its job without bonding the board to the laminate. If the release sheet wrinkled badly, bridged an edge, or left areas unpressed, treat that as a process failure and repeat the coupon before making a real panel.
Keep the use case honest. The source material treats board-pressed and sandbagged honeycomb methods as legitimate DIY techniques for non-critical items, while warning against using them for critical structural components. That boundary is the lesson. You are learning pressure, contact, and release discipline, not granting yourself permission to build a highly loaded structural part without design and test evidence.
Worked example: matched molding a carbon aerofoil half
An aerofoil half is a natural matched-mold candidate because the shape is shallow, the outside surface matters, and repeatability matters if you are making more than one side or more than one element. Laminate the carbon into the female mold as you would in a clean wet lay-up, but plan from the beginning for the male tool to close. The first carbon layer is the critical visual and structural layer. Carbon fabric is stiff, so do not assume it will stay in a tight curve just because it looked settled when you left it. Work the fabric into the curve, apply the release strategy to the back of the laminate, and close the male mold while the resin is still workable.
The pressure from the male mold is doing two jobs. It helps hold the carbon into tight curvature so you avoid air-bubble voids between the first layer and the outer surface, and it controls the back face so the part has a more consistent thickness. If the male mold is well finished and released properly, the inside face can also come out clean. If the male mold is rough, bridged by release film, or clamped unevenly, the part will show that too.
After cure, release the male mold carefully before removing the part from the female mold. Inspect the aerofoil half along the tightest curvature first. That is where the process most often tells the truth. A clean outer face with no void-like defects, a controlled back face, and repeatable closure of the tool are the signs that the method is working.
Worked example: a shallow dash panel with a visible back face
A dash panel is a good intermediate pressure-molding exercise because it is usually shallow enough to separate from simple tools and the back face may matter for fit, appearance, or mounting. A basic wet lay-up can make the part, but the hand-worked rear surface may be uneven. If the panel needs to sit against brackets, carry instruments cleanly, or simply look finished from both sides, the extra male tool can be justified.
Build the decision around the finished requirement. If only the front face matters and the panel is a one-off, a normal wet lay-up may be enough. If you need repeat panels, consistent thickness, or a better back face, make the male tool and rehearse the close. Use release on the male side, check that the tool does not bridge across any recessed areas, and apply broad clamping or weights so pressure is even. After cure, judge the panel by fit and repeatability, not just gloss. The useful result is a panel that comes out the intended thickness and can be made again without inventing the process from scratch.
Common mistakes
Mistake 1: using pressure molding because it sounds advanced. Good looks like choosing it only when thickness control, consolidation, carbon conformity, sandwich contact, or a two-sided finish actually matters. Extra tooling that does not solve a real part requirement is just extra work.
Mistake 2: choosing a shape that traps the tool. Good looks like selecting simple shallow shapes whose mold halves can be separated cleanly. Deep shapes, undercuts, and awkward interiors belong to different mold strategies or staged construction, not a forced matched-mold attempt.
Mistake 3: forgetting that the male side creates a surface. Good looks like treating the male mold, board, polythene, or release film as part of the finished result. If the back face needs to be clean, the pressing face and release layer must be clean.
Mistake 4: letting release film bridge. Good looks like cutting overlapping pieces where necessary and working the release film into tight corners. Release film that spans a corner can stop the tool from pressing the laminate into that corner.
Mistake 5: closing the tool too late. Good looks like estimating lay-up time and closing time before resin is mixed, then getting the pressure applied before gel begins. A pressure tool cannot fully correct a laminate that has already started to set in the wrong shape.
Mistake 6: assuming pressure replaces testing. Good looks like keeping simple board, sandbag, and home matched-mold methods on appropriate non-critical components unless the part has real design and validation behind it. Professional structural composite work may involve coupons, proof tests, and failure tests. Workshop pressure alone is not that evidence.
Mistake 7: building a flexible mold for a pressure job. Good looks like a mold with enough thickness and reinforcement to remain stable when weighted or clamped. A tool that flexes under the process cannot be expected to produce a consistent part.
Mistake 8: ignoring the rulebook. Good looks like checking class regulations before committing to carbon, aramid, sandwich materials, or any replacement composite part. A beautifully molded illegal part is still unusable.
Drill: three pressure-molding coupons before the real part
Run this drill before you pressure mold a part that matters. Coupon 1 is a flat board-pressed laminate. Use the same resin family and at least a simplified version of the fabric stack you expect to use later. Cover the wet laminate with the chosen release layer, press it with a board, and use weights or clamps that apply broad contact. Success is a cured coupon with clean release, a more controlled back face than hand lay-up alone, and no obvious unpressed regions.
Coupon 2 is a simple curved pressure coupon. Use a shallow single-curvature mold and a conformable weight such as a sandbag. The goal is to learn whether the weight maintains contact over the whole area. Success is a cured coupon that follows the curve without obvious bridging or loose-looking regions.
Coupon 3 is a small matched-mold rehearsal. Use the real male and female tool if they already exist, or a small representative corner if you are still developing the process. Dry-fit first. Then laminate, apply the release strategy, and close the tool before gel. Success is repeatable closure, clean release from both sides, and a visible improvement in the tightest curvature or back-face finish compared with a hand-laid control coupon.
Do the three coupons in one workshop session if the parts are small, or split them over three short sessions if cure time requires it. The count is three coupons, not one lucky attempt. The success criterion is not that the coupons are pretty from ten feet away. The success criterion is that you can name how pressure, release, timing, and tool fit affected the result before you risk the real component.
When this principle breaks down
Pressure molding breaks down when the method is asked to solve the wrong problem. It does not make a forbidden material legal. It does not make a poorly chosen ply schedule correct. It does not turn a deep trapped shape into an easy mold. It does not prove that a highly loaded component is safe. It does not replace the controlled environment, material handling, testing, and production discipline used in professional structural composite work.
The method also breaks down when the tool is not good enough. If the mold face is poor, the part copies it. If the mold is full of voids or too flexible, pressure adds risk. If the release strategy is untested, the second tool can become a bonded problem. If the pressure path is uneven, the part will be uneven. The answer is not more force. The answer is a better candidate part, a better tool, a better release plan, or a different process.
Use pressure molding as a workshop capability with a clear boundary. It is excellent for improving thickness control, consolidation, and finish on suitable non-critical or properly validated parts. It is not a badge of seriousness. The serious move is choosing it only when it is the right tool.
Author Review
No quiz questions are attached to this lesson.
Sources
| # | Document | Chunk | Pages | Score | Collection |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | c8ea927b-ee2f-add5-6a09-0c2ae6daa1eb | 133 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 2 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | b0b6aa95-bae6-f58f-78aa-3010e487b00a | 133 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 3 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 83bc8ccc-3320-7340-25ef-873a72e41eb8 | 130 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 4 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 724f6846-659c-ed7f-83d9-8d0189cdf135 | 85 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 5 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | e493d9fa-3b52-2c3b-5bc4-8ddf5343ec5d | 144 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 6 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | bda67ac6-a317-6558-9604-3312286ca320 | 93 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 7 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | e7681fb9-23a0-7bc7-e029-4ec6bb0c593d | 135 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 8 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 4f22e4c3-66c3-aac4-ffb5-3e97931cca75 | 125 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 9 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 66e10725-330f-9f16-b963-f97ec08d48b5 | 131 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 10 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 0417d4d8-2df3-87dd-a347-0684c8b7e5b5 | 178 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 11 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 50e8919c-ef19-4354-dea8-95d9c311c69e | 178 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 12 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | b62835e2-37fe-36d0-af44-3b5152d14917 | 184 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 13 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | bc04fc1c-58d3-53b3-5c9a-bf2963d47c7f | 15 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 14 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 194efe34-01b3-87b6-6edd-9e14be46972c | 107 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 15 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 88cdfe24-5210-0658-555d-fdf9a66a799c | 100 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 16 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 97d73cab-4961-42cb-36c4-dc19dd01ecd2 | 120 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 17 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 4decbd29-4871-410e-a85b-e9b719bec5ed | 159 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 18 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | 4cd165c8-25b6-009a-f4b5-4fae9a62b8dc | 12 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |
| 19 | Competition Car Composites Simon McBeath | a0cc1d08-7515-9bbc-fe01-3d5ebc6719bb | 11 | 1 | uio_books_raw_v1 |